Back in 2004 I had come to Rome with my choir, Milwaukee Children's Choir, and visited the Trevi Fountain. It's said that if you throw a euro, with your right hand over your left shoulder, into the fountain that you will return to Rome. And sure enough eight years later, here I was back in Rome.
Our Journey
Like any other trip, we left our apartment headed for Amsterdam on the train. The only difference for this trip was that we were headed to the airport the night before we left. Since the trains don't run all night and we needed to be at the airport by 5am at the latest we stayed the night at the airport. We got into Schipol at about midnight (7hrs to departure) and walked around for the first hour or two and then decided to find somewhere "comfy" to sleep for a bit. Surprisingly enough we were not the only ones. We found a few chairs and made makeshift pillows out of our backpacks and attempted to sleep. It somewhat worked, the main problem being that it was freezing. There were actually cold air blowing on us, so we got up and walked around until the second floor opened up near the check in desks and sat in warmer conditions until we could in fact check in. Our flight was on time and fine, except that it was also a cold one. Two hours later we landed in Aeroporto Fiumicino, got on the shuttle and in another 0.5 hours we were in Rome. We made our way to the hotel to check in and drop off our bags before heading out to see a few sights.
*warning these posts will not go in chronological order, but just talk about each sight we saw while in Rome. It may get a little confusing*
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| (Imagine plane sounds) |
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| Milwaukee was actually on there! |
Roma storia ~ Rome History
The history of Rome spans 2,800 years of the existence of
a city that grew from a small Italian village in the 9th century BC into the center of a vast
civilization that dominated the Mediterranean region for centuries. It is one of the oldest named cities
in the world. Its political power was eventually replaced by that of peoples of mostly Germanic origin, marking the
beginning of the Middle
Ages. Rome became the seat of the Roman
Catholic Church and the home of a sovereign state,
the Vatican City, within its walls. Today it is the capital of Italy, an
international worldwide political and cultural center, a major global city, and is regarded as one of the most beautiful cities of
the ancient world.
Legend has it that the origin of the city's name is thought
to be that of the reputed founder and first ruler, the legendary Romulus. It is said that
Romulus and his twin brother Remus, orphans who were suckled and raised by a she-wolf,
decided to build a city. After an argument, Romulus killed Remus and named the
city Rome, after himself.
Castel Sant' Angelo ~ Castle of the Holy Angel
Believe it or
not, the Castel Sant’ Angelo was originally a mausoleum; The Mausoleum of
Hadrian. It was initially commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a
mausoleum for him and his family. The popes converted the structure
into a castle, beginning in the 14th century; Pope
Nicholas III connected the castle
to St. Peter's Basilica by a covered fortified corridor called
the Passetto di Borgo. The fortress was the refuge of Pope Clement VII from the siege of Charles's Landsknechte. Leo X built
a chapel with a Madonna by Raffaello
da Montelupo. In 1536 Montelupo also created a marble statue of Saint Michael holding his sword after the 590 plague
to surmount the Castel. Montelupo's statue was replaced by a bronze statue of
the same subject, executed by the Flemish sculptor Peter Anton von Verschaffelt, in 1753.
Verschaffelt's is still in place, though Montelupo's can be seen in an open
court in the interior of the Castle. In 1901 the Castle was decommissioned and
is now a museum; Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant'Angelo.
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As lovely as these sights are, there is a downside. And that is the street vendors. they are everywhere! And they don't have an issue with your personal bubble or whether you look interested or not they will still ask. Or like when its raining and you clearly have an umbrella and they're trying to sell you one...really?!?! come on common sense, kick in!
-_- (yes, was getting a little ticked off by them, keeping me from just enjoying the sights).
Fiume Tevere ~ Tiber River
The Tiber is the third-longest river in Italy. The river has achieved lasting fame as the main
watercourse of the city of Rome, founded on its eastern banks.
In addition to numerous modern bridges over the Tiber in Rome, there remain still a few ancient bridges (now mostly pedestrian-only) that have survived in
part like the Ponte Sant’ Angelo.
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| Ponte Sant' Angelo |
Piazza Navona
Piazza Navona is a city square in Rome, Italy. It is built on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, built in 1st century AD, and follows the form of the open
space of the stadium. The ancient
Romans came there to watch the agones ("games"), and hence it was
known as 'Circus Agonalis' (competition arena). It is believed that over time
the name changed to 'in agone' to 'navone' and eventually to 'navona'.
Defined as a public space in the last years of
15th century, the Piazza was transformed into a highly significant
example of Baroque Roman
architecture and art during the pontificate of Innocent X.
It features important sculptural and
architectural creations: in the center stands the famous Fontana
dei Quattro Fiumi or Fountain of the Four Rivers (1651) by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, topped by the Obelisk of Domitian. It has two
additional fountains: at the southern end is the Fontana del Moro with
a basin and four Tritons sculpted by Giacomo della Porta (1575) to which, in
1673, Bernini added a statue of a Moor, wrestling with a dolphin, and at the
northern end is the Fountain
of Neptune (1574) created by Giacomo della Porta. The statue of Neptune in the northern fountain, the work
of Antonio Della Bitta, was added in 1878 to make that fountain more
symmetrical with La Fontana del Moro in the south.
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| Christmas Festival |
When we got to the Piazza, there was a Christmas Festival going on. It was filled with little stands and shops from end to end. I wasn't used to seeing such a crowded Piazza! The last time I was there, it was cleared out and you were able to see both ends. People could sit at the restaurants admiring the fountains and Baroque architecture. There were also artists and caricaturists everywhere. (Of course I had one done). It seemed like a different Piazza, but I still enjoyed being there.
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| Fountain of Neptune |
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| Fountain of Neptune |
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| Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi |
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| Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi |
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| Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi |
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| Fountain of Neptune |
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| Fountain of Neptune |
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| Fontana del Moro |
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| Fontana del Moro |
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| Fontana del Moro |
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| Fontana del Moro |
While walking around the piazza, we found a small alley near the north end and we took some photos of the architecture of some older buildings.
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| Nasoni |
Now I think would be a great time to interrupt and talk about the public water system of Rome.
Nasoni
By the
first century A.D., thanks to the aqueducts, the city had 1,000 liters of water
available per person, per day.
Rome
probably has more public water fountains than any other city in the world. Yet
visitors walk by them daily without even knowing they exist. Yes, you can get
clean, great tasting, ice cold drinking water all over town – FREE!
Yep, rather than pay for that overpriced bottle of water, find one
of the many “nasoni”
in town. Nasoni, which
translates as “big noses,” are spread all over the city of Rome. There are more
than 2,500 of these nasoni, mostly in a cylindrical style. In addition, there
are also more than 90 fountains from which you can drink potable water…
The water running through a
nasone comes from the Peschiera reservoir. It runs through over seventy miles
of channels all over the city of Rome and comes out cold – even in the summer –
due to its underground location. The nasoni run all day long, every day of the
year. But the constantly running water does not go to waste. It is recycled for
use as non-potable water.
The
current versions of the nasoni were installed in 1872. Most today, like then,
are primarily made of cast iron. The water that flows from the nasoni is
licensed by the city of Rome. That’s why locals call it l’acqua del sindaco, or the mayor’s water. http://www.lonelyplanet.com/travelblogs/654/62739/Water,+Water+Everywhere!?destId=359975
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A Nasoni just oustide St.
Peters Square |
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| Drinking from a Nasoni |
After walking back into the Piazza Navona, we realized we were getting pretty hungry and looked around at the restaurants right in the square. They were a little outside our price range and we decided to look down some of the side streets. We found a nice little restaurant called Zafferino, I had some lasagna while Charla ordered some pasta. But then we ordered a tiramisu for dessert. Which was amazing!
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| Tiramisu |
Gelato <3
If you didn't see this coming, I'm sorry but have you been living under a rock all your life??? Gelato
is defined in English as a soft ice cream containing little or no air. **history lesson** The history of gelato dates
back to frozen desserts served in ancient Rome and Egypt made from snow and ice brought down from mountaintops and
preserved below ground. Later, frozen desserts appeared during banquets at the Medici court in Florence. In fact, the Florentine architect Bernardo Buontalenti is said to have invented modern ice cream in 1565, as he
presented his recipe and his innovative refrigerating techniques to Catherine de' Medici. She in turn brought the novelty to France, where in 1686
the Sicilian fisherman Francesco
Procopio dei Coltelli perfected the first ice cream machine. The popularity of
gelato among larger shares of the population, however, only increased in the
1920s–1930s in the northern Italian city of Varese, where the first gelato cart was developed. Italy is the
only country where the market share of handmade gelato versus industrial one is
over 55%. Currently, over 5,000 Italian gelaterie, or gelato shops,
all over the world occupy more than 15,000 gelatai, or gelato vendors.
While eating our Tiramisu we decided we must have some gelato as well. ~ II Gelato di San Crispino
"A serious contender for the title of Rome's best gelateria. The ice cream is made with seasonal, strictly natural ingredients resulting in unforgettable flavors." We had their specialty flavor:
miele or wild honey. ~delizioso!!!
Il Colosseo ~ Colosseum
Originally known as the Flavian Ampitheatre, the 50,000-seat Colosseum is the most thrilling of Rome's ancient sights. The name Colosseum has long
been believed to be derived from a colossal statue of Nero nearby (the
statue of Nero was named after the Colossus
of Rhodes). It was here that gladiators met in mortal combat and public spectacles such
as mock sea battles, animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous battles,
and dramas based on Classical mythology.
The Colosseum's huge crowd
capacity made it essential that the venue could be filled or evacuated quickly.
Its architects adopted solutions very similar to those used in modern stadiums
to deal with the same problem. The amphitheatre was ringed by 80 entrances at
ground level, 76 of which were used by ordinary spectators. Each entrance and
exit was numbered, as well as each staircase. The northern main entrance was
reserved for the Roman Emperor and his aides, while the other three
axial entrances were most likely used by the elite. All four axial entrances
were richly decorated with painted stucco reliefs, of which fragments survive.
Many of the original outer entrances have disappeared with the collapse of the
perimeter wall, but entrances XXIII (23) to LIV (54) still survive.
Spectators
were given tickets in the form of numbered pottery shards, which directed them
to the appropriate section and row. They accessed their seats via vomitoria (singular vomitorium), passageways that
opened into a tier of seats from below or behind. These quickly dispersed
people into their seats and, afterwards or in an emergency evacuation, could help
them exit within only a few minutes.
The arena was comprised
of a wooden floor covered by sand (the Latin word for sand is harena or arena), covering an elaborate underground structure called the hypogeum (literally
meaning "underground"). Little now remains of the original arena
floor, but the hypogeum is still clearly visible. It
consisted of a two-level subterranean network of tunnels and cages beneath the
arena where gladiators and animals were held before contests began. 80 vertical
shafts provided instant access to the arena for caged animals and scenery
pieces concealed underneath; larger hinged platforms, called hegmata, provided access for elephants and the like. It
was restructured on numerous occasions; at least twelve different phases of
construction can be seen. Substantial quantities of machinery also
existed in the hypogeum. Elevators and
pulleys raised and lowered scenery and props, as well as lifting caged animals
to the surface for release. There is evidence for the existence of major hydraulic mechanisms and according to ancient accounts; it was
possible to flood the arena rapidly, presumably via a connection to a nearby
aqueduct.
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| Ampitheatre and Colossus |
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| Flavian Ampitheatre |
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| Filler for arches |
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| Examples of old bronze joints |
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| Example of senators seating |
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| Actual pieces of seating |
On our second day in Rome, we started off at the Colosseum. We got in line and found out there was a student discount, and then if we wanted to add a tour it would cost roughly a normal ticket price so we decided why not. The tickets also included the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill, so you at least get your money's worth. Which I mean you do by the Colosseum itself, but the Forum is a nice consolation prize.
We also came back on the third night to see it all lit up and just sit in awe at it.
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| Because its Christmas time... |
Arco di Costantino ~ Arch of Constantine
Although not part of the Colosseum, the Arch of Constantine is a beautiful landmark. It is situated between the Colosseum and the Palatine
Hill. Built in 312 AD, it commemorates Constantine's victory over his rival Maxentius at the Battle of Ponte Milvio. The arch spans
the Via
Triumphalis, the way taken by the emperors when they
entered the city in triumph. This route started at the Campus Martius, led through the Circus
Maximus and around the Palatine Hill; immediately after the Arch of
Constantine, the procession would turn left at the Meta Sudans and march along the Via
Sacra to the Forum Romanum and on to the Capitoline Hill, passing both the Arches of Titus and Septimius Severus.
The last time I was in Rome I remember it a little differently. I remember the Arch being that close to the Colosseum, but I also remember it being bigger. I'm not sure if this is because I was shorter back then, or if it's because I've seen so many arches and things while I've been in Europe that have made my expectation of it less. All in all it is still something I could not pass up seeing again, and it is still in great shape despite its age.
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| view from inside the Colosseum |
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| view from Colosseum |
Foro Romano ~ Roman Forum
The Roman Forum is
a rectangular forum (plaza) surrounded
by the ruins of several important ancient government buildings at the center of
the city of Rome. Citizens of the ancient city referred to this space, originally
a marketplace, as the Forum
Magnum, or simply the Forum.
For centuries it
was the center of Roman public life: the site of triumphal processions and elections, venue for public speeches, criminal trials, and gladiatorial matches, and nucleus of commercial affairs. Here statues and
monuments commemorated the city's great men. The teeming heart of ancient
Rome, it has been called the most celebrated meeting
place in the world, and in all history. Located in the small valley between the
Palatine and Capitoline
Hills, the Forum today is a sprawling ruin of
architectural fragments and intermittent archaeological excavations attracting
numerous sightseers.
When I visited Rome in 2004, the Forum seemed to be much larger, however this time it seemed like there was almost nothing to see. The difference was that majority of the Northwestern area was closed for some restorations. So it felt much smaller. But this time I was also able to check out Palatine Hill, so after stumbling around the ancient Marketplace, we headed for the hill.
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Palatino ~ Palatine Hill
The Palatine Hill is the centermost of the Seven Hills of Rome and is one of the most ancient parts of the city. It stands 40 meters above the Roman Forum, and looks down upon the Circus Maximus on the other side. Rome has its origins on the Palatine. Recent excavations show that people have lived there since approximately 1000 BC. It is here that Romulus supposedly founded the city in 753 BC and also Rome’s emperors lived in unabashed luxury.
Some of the highlights we saw on the Hill were the House of Augustus (Rome's first emperor), the Flavian Palace, and The Stadium and Severan Complex.
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| Map of the Forum and Palatine Hill |
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| Heading up the hill |
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| The Stadium |
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| A grape tree! |
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| View from the Hill looking out at the capitol |
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| House of Augustus |
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| House of Augustus |
Circo Massimo ~ Circus Maximus
The Circus Maximus is an ancient
Roman chariot
racing stadium and mass entertainment. Situated in the valley between the Aventine and Palatine hills, it was the first and largest stadium in ancient Rome and its later Empire. It measured 621 m (2,037 ft) in length and
118 m (387 ft) in width, and could accommodate about 150,000
spectators. In its fully developed form, it became the model for circuses
throughout the Roman Empire.
By the late
1st century AD, the Colosseum had been
built to host most of the city's gladiator shows and smaller beast-hunts, and most track-athletes
competed at the purpose-designed Stadium
of Domitian, though long-distance foot races were
still held at the Circus. Eventually, 135 days of the year were devoted to ludi. The last known beast-hunt at the Circus Maximus took
place in 523, and the last known races there were held by Totila in 549. Nowadays, the site is now a public park.
Very little now remains of
the Circus, except for the grass-covered racing track and the outline of the
central barrier. Some of the starting gates remain, but most of the seating has
disappeared. After the 6th century, the site fell into disuse and gradual
decay. Some of its stone was recycled, but many standing structures survived
for a time. In 1587, two obelisks were removed by Pope
Sixtus V, and one of these was re-sited at the
Piazza del Popolo. the original level of track is now
buried 6m beneath the modern surface. Mid 19th century workings
uncovered the lower parts of a tier and outer portico. Since then, a series of
excavations has exposed further sections of seating, curved turn and central
barrier but further exploration has been limited by the scale, depth and
waterlogging of the site. The Circus still occasionally entertains the
Romans; being a large park area in the centre of the city, it is often used for
concerts and meetings.
It's true the Circus Maximus isn't much to look at nowadays, but it is a very important piece of the Ancient Roman history. Most who come to visit Rome go to the Colosseum, Forum, and Palatine but skip over the Circus. It's older than the Colosseum, and probably just as old if not older than the ruins seen in the Forum and on the hill. I only knew about it from watching an episode about Rome's Rise of an Empire on Cities of the Underworld. Where it showed some of the ruins of an old temple near the Circus Maximus. And I thought how cool it would be to see this huge arena.
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| The Circus nowadays |
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| Panoramic View of Circus Maximus from Palatine Hill |
S.P.Q.R.
Senātus Populusque Rōmānus "The Senate and People of Rome"
The phrase is referring to
the government of the ancient Roman
Republic, and used as an official emblem of the
modern day commune (municipality) of
Rome. It appears on coins, at the end of documents made public by inscription in
stone or metal, in dedications of monuments and public works, and was
emblazoned on the standards of the Roman legions. [Use of SPQR has been revived in modern times,
throughout Europe and beyond. In Rome today sewage and water supply accesses
contain the label "SPQR" in recognition of the innovation in sewage
and water supply realized during the Roman times.]
The title's date of establishment is unknown, but it first appears
in inscriptions of the Late Republic, from c. 80 BC onwards. Previously, the
official name of the Roman state, as evidenced on coins, was simply ROMA. The abbreviation last
appears on coins of Constantine I
the Great (ruled AD 312-37).
The two legal entities mentioned, Senātus and the Populus Rōmānus, are sovereign
when combined. However, where populus is sovereign alone,Senātus is not. Under the Roman Monarchy neither entity was sovereign. The
phrase, therefore, can be dated to no earlier than the foundation of the
Republic.
The phrase can be seen on almost any and every monument of ancient Rome.
End of Part 1 of 3...
